Fifth Wheels Motorhomes Popups/Truck Campers Travel Trailers
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This page last updated June 28th containing letters emailed to Pete from April 6, 2012 - January 12, 2013.
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Where can I get a replacement air bag system for this motor home? I took it in to be repaired and they replaced the pumps and bags but they don't stay up more than two days. They didn't do that before because I used them to level the motor home.
Are you talking about front or rear? Some of those units had the Jet Air Ride on the rear; and some used the Firestone Air Ride front and rear. The Firestone parts are no problem to get. If it's the Jet Air Ride, it could be a little more difficult to find.
I would look for air leaks in the air lines and fittings first though.
Where is the fuse box located at for the dash lights, brake lights and other stuff on a 1981 Winnebago with a Chevy drive train?
Look at the dash, just above the dog house, and see if there isn't a section across the bottom that will pull off to access the fuse panel.
How to change the in tank fuel pump in this motorhome and electrical circuit (wire colour), and fuse location or panel.
Also, is there a fuel filter in the gas line outside the gas tank?
Let's see, where we start. First, you drop the tank to get to the fuel pump, unless it happens to be mounted right in front of the tank, or you can access the top of the tank without dropping it.
Then there is a fuel filter along the inside of the driver's side frame rail and also a filter in the carburetor. The manufacturer used a fuel pump relay on the early units instead of a fuse. It is usually located tied up in the wiring harness under the dash.
I can't help you with an electrical circuit, but if my memory is correct, it will be an orange wire going to the pump.
I have a bad fuel pressure regulator and I was wondering what pressure it should operate at?
Dear Wayne, It should run between 4-7 psi, but be able to run at 14 psi under full load.
While camping last summer and hooked to shore power the house lights went real bright and even melted my porch light. Also, heater fan and water pump ran faster but only when plugged into shore power.
I have since replaced the power converter which is located under the driver side bed and it is still doing that. Could it somehow be getting 24 volts instead of 12 volts?
I'm using only two batteries; one for coach and other for house.
Under the hood, right on fire wall there is what looks like a solenoid thing. Could that be bad and combining both batteries to make 24 volts?
Also, do you know where I can get the clear plastic circuit film that goes on the back of the instument cluster; ie., fuel gauge, oil pressure, water temperature, etc. It is brittle and some traces are broke. All gauges are non working.
Dear Mark, I don't believe you're getting 24 volts, but you could have a bad diode in the isolator or another open circuit that is causing the power converter to over charge.
I don't know if GM parts could get the print circuit for you, but look in your chassis fuse panel for a blown gauge fuse.
1989 MINI WINNIE MOTORHOME, BEEN SITTING SEVERAL YEARS. NEW BATTERY, CHEVY 350 V8 ENGINE TRIES TO START BUT RUNS RUFF THEN QUITS. HOW DO I DRAIN OUT THE OLD GASOLINE?
You will probably have to pull the tank to clean it. You might try disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel filter and pumping it out, but it depends on how much fuel is in it. Sometimes you can remove the filler spout and pump the fuel out.
I just bought a used 1987 Pace Arrow (Fleetwood). It has a Chevy 454 and a 3 speed transmission. I plan on being one of the crazed individuals on the road this Saturday, 22 December, to take the family from Western Michigan to Sebring, Florida to visit the in-laws for Christmas. Is it okay to drive 65 mph in that thing for long distances, or must I go slower to avoid blowing the engine? I won’t be going through any mountains, .just some hills in Kentucky and eastern Tenessee (I-69-I-65-Ala 234-I10-I75 is the route; picking up I-75 in northern Florida and going south).
What do you think?
Depends on the condition of the engine, but I wouldn't push it over 65 mph. Slowing down to 60 mph makes a big difference. You have to remember that 55 mph was the speed limit when this Pace Arrow was designed.
You might look at a Gear Vendor if you want to keep it and run the current speed limit now.
Where is the master cylinder located? My RV brakes are soft. I think it needs fluid but cannot locate.
Also, is the power steering fluid located in the front?
Master cylinder is in the left front wheel well. A hole is cut out of the engine heat shield right at the top of the master cylinder so you can pop off the retainers and lift the cap up and out of the hole. You will need a light to see the fluid level.
Rear spring (leaf), at rear perch are twisting chassis and are starting to hit floor of RV when they are under normal load. I am having the front and rear springs redone by a reputable spring installer and he found the problem when raising the vehicle up to rework the rear springs.
Any ideas as to a cure?
Inspect it for broken body supports, especially if re-arching the springs did not correct it. You might be able to correct it with air helper springs.
Do you know of any place where I can get a sewer hose connection to fit this motorhome? The ones currently available commercially don't fit! They're too small. It's the connection at the outflow end that I can't find a fitting for
Also, this motorhome has two batteries and the one in front does not hold a charge even though it's a new battery. Do they need to be connected in-line together?
I am not sure what you're into on the sewer hose connection. I question if maybe it's been replumbed. The hose connector has been standard for years. Some of the older dump valves were a different size.
I have a 1983 Southwind Eagle 1 by Fleetwood with a Chevy 454 engine. It has been sitting for a few years.
My problem is that the tail lights, reverse lights and rear running lights do not work. Brake lights and rear turn signals are very dim. I changed tthe bulbs, and cleaned the light sockets. The tail lamp fuse has continuity. I checked the wiring at the sockets with a test light (6 to 12 volts) and get nothing. I checked the wires attached to the head light switch on the dash board and get voltage from all the wires except two, a white and a yellow wire.
Is this a bad switch causing the problem? If not, what is it? Please help. Oh and yes, I did have the light switch turned on when checking for voltage.
If your front clearance lights and parking lights are working, that should rule out the light switch.
I would go under the rig at the rear where the manufacturer tied the wires from the tail lights to the main wiring harness and check there.
If you have no voltage, start tracing the wiring harness forward to the bulk head connector. Look for breaks or melted wires along the frame rail.
I don't know if you can help since this motor home is so old, but I would appreciate it if I could put it in reverse. Back up lights won't come on and one fuel gauge does not work.
The back up light switch was on the side of the transmission, check to see if you have power in and out of the switch when in reverse. Test the sending unit on the tank that the gauge doesn't operate on.
You might want to see if the switching valve has been replaced and not providing the gauge signal for the second tank.
I am trying to find a throttle cable that fits this motor home because without it, it's stuck in my driveway. I have looked everywhere and even had a mechanic try to find one.
Do you know where I can find a throttle cable that goes from the gas peddle to the linkage on engine for a 1986 33' Fleetwood Pace Arrow?
I would really appreciate ANY help you could give me as its been sitting in my driveway for seven months when it broke.
You should be able to take the VIN and get one through your local GMC parts supply. You might find a truck parts house that can build the cable for you.
How do you remove chrome wheel covers without damaging them? I cannot pop them off like a normal hubcap as I am afraid they will be bent or damaged.
Usually you have a couple of lug nuts holding them on. Sometimes the caps over the nuts are covers, you pull the caps, and then remove the nuts.
Intermittent stalling while going up a grade; engine will turn over but takes about 10 minutes to restart. After four hours of driving to Vegas (not to hot), going up grade past Baker it stalled wouldn't start for one hour, then it was fine. What's up?
I suspect a problem with your delivery fuel pump in the tank or the pick up tube in the tank.
I am looking to replace the cruise control for this RV. My reason for replacing it is because the servo is making a "running" noise that I hear whenever I put the ignition switch in the ACC position. The noise reminds me of an old electric clock motor that has run dry. The cruise control that is currently on the RV is from 'travelaccessories a division of A.R.A. MFG.'
QUESTION 1: Is there a replacement for this servo?
QUESTION 2: Is there a newer aftermarket cruise control that you would recommend for replacement of my old cruise control equipment?
The RV has a 454cu.in. engine with a 4BBL carburetor.
I don't know that you could find a replacement servo. Dana Roster makes after market cruise control kits. Probably your local NAPA store would know of an after market cruise control kit.
How do I replace my worn out electric steps with manual (STROMBERG CARLSON) steps?
Best way possible. Remove the old step (bolts from the bottom), fit in the new step and see what you need to do to secure it.
Is the pusher fuel pump located in the tank on this vehicle?
Is the regulator on the right side frame rail just past the wheels?
Is the regulator able to be removed without touching the pump or lines to the pump?
If there is not an external electric fuel pump in line, then the pump is in the tank. The regulator is mounted to the right side frame rail next to the tank and can be changed separately, but you have to disconnect the fuel lines from the regulator.
I am having an electrical problem. The whole unit runs off the generator just fine, but when you plug in to an electrical outlet it runs off battery until the battery dies and it is the same battery the generator starts from.
Is there a converter somewhere that has to switched?
And the generator will not stay running, is there an inline filter?
Also, I cannot get the hot water heater to light up. It has a self ignitor and it sparks but does not light. Is there a gas switch for the hot water?
First, you need to repair the charging system and get it to charge the battery while plugged in, possibly the converter. Then you need to make sure you have full voltage when trying to light the hot water heater. If you have low voltage, it will spark, but not light.
If the stove will light, the gas is on, so the water heater should light.
You do have a fuel filter for the generator but you also need 12 volts for the generator to run, if the voltage is low, it will quit.
Did the 1984 Pace Arrow come stock with cruise control
Yes, but Fleetwood used an after market Dana system. It was not a GM cruise control.
My belts are destroyed and I would like to find part numbers for them.
Most parts stores that still have books should be able to look them up in their Gates or similar catalog.
Check warning light is on. Can't locate connection for diagnostic. I think it may be oil pressure switch causing it to stay on. Replaced it on the road but the harness to it has two wires and the replacement for a 454 engine only has one connector. The pressure on the gauge stays pegged at 60 psi. Tried disconnecting the battery to reset but it comes back on.
I am not sure it has a test port. If the gauge is pegged, the light won't go out.
You need to find the right sending unit and get the oil pressure gauge working; that's more important than the "check engine light".
Do you know where the wire going to the fuel sending unit is located and what color it is?
I want to check it before I take out the tank. Is it on the left side of the tank or right side?
There is a wire coming from the left and right going over on top of the tank, but I don't know which one.
Can you also give me a tip on how to take the tank out.
Look for a pink wire, usually running along the right side frame rail.
The tank is simple, remove fill hose, take the straps loose and drop it down.
I was driving down the street and when I pushed on the throttle it made a loud, ticking sound; when I took my foot off it didn't make this sound. Once I got it where I was going (about 2 miles), the engine wouldn't turn off when I shut the key off.
I disconnected the battery and next thing I know there was a lot of white smoke coming from under the engine where like my pulleys are. I got underneath to try and see where the smoke was coming from and noticed a clear type liquid leaking from somewhere. I am still unable to find where it's leaking or what it was that is leaking.
Can you please tell me what to look for, what to check, what it could be and what to do?
If it was clear liquid, it could be water. Power steering fluid or possibly an AC hose blew and it could be oil from the AC unit. Check all of your fluids. Pull the engine cover and inspect the hoses.
After years of being parked my motor home won't start. It is not getting fuel to engine. The fuel pump works.
Any ideas on how to start it?
I haven't changed plugs or wires as of yet and the batteries are all new.
Replace both fuel filters and see if you get fuel. Make sure if the pump is running, that it's actually picking up fuel.
The motor home has been sitting for five years. I did run it every once in a while. Now I want use it again. I had it smogged and serviced. My question is how can I tell if my auxiliary fans work when it gets hot and where is the sensor? Is there a way to test them?
You can find the relay out next to the fans on the radiator and jumper the relay.
Look to see if they are using a probe stuck between the fins on the radiator or a sensor in the upper radiator hose to signal the fans to turn on and off, or turn on the dash air conditioner to "max air".
I'm trying to locate a fuel sending unit for this motorhome. The pickup tubes come straight down in the tank and it has two of them (one for the engine and the other for the generator).
Check with Transfer Flow for a universal fuel sending unit. You also might find one at your local parts supplier.
How to fix brake lights. No power going to them just fixed fuses. Please help. I was supposed to leave yesterday. We thought it was the brake booster, but now brake lights don't work.
Please tell me how to fix. I need to leave.
Check the brake light switch, probably at the master cylinder. If the switch is good, it could be the turn signal switch or a broken wire.
I have an 80 gallon gas tank that is rusting. Can you tell me where I might find a replacement? I would prefer a new one, but a re-furb one would be better than what I have. I don't have any leaks, just a lot of rust in my tank.
A radiator shop might boil the tank and put a bladder in it.
Contact Transfer Flow for a tank or your GM dealer.
How to remove the ignition switch when key is lost?
You'll have to call a locksmith. The tumbler will have to be jerked out with a slide hammer.
I need to know if there is a governor on throttle or distributer. If you try to hit a passing gear it starts to die, let off throttle and it's fine.
It will climb hills but sometimes as slow as ten miles an hour. Again, no passing gear.If you step on the throttle it tries to die. It runs great otherwise, if not a governor any other advice?
You have an ignition or a fuel problem under load you need to correct before you start looking at the passing gear. There is no governor involved.
I need diagram and procedure to remove and install 454 engine (long block).
Local area dealers want about $4500 to $6000 to do the job (plus the long block).
I know it is not easy but how much must you disassemble to remove engine?
I'm 84 and on a budget that excludes $75 per hour and up labor costs. So it has to be DIY!
I don't know of any diagram or written procedure for doing the job. If it has a driver door, you can reach through the door with a cherry picker and lift the engine out. Some people like to remove the grill and radiator and pull it out through the front. And some shops will drop the transmission and get the motor out through the bottom.
Look to see which would be the easiest for your coach.
I have 34', 1992 Allegro Bay motor home that will start (sometimes), and idle for awhile, but stall as soon as I point it uphill.
I changed the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump along passenger side rail. No gas seems to be pushed from the tank to the fuel pump?
Is there another pump in the tank? If so, do I need to drop the tank to get to it?
Yes, you should have a pump in the fuel tank and the tank has to be lowered to replace the pump.
I shorted 12 volts to ground while the motor was running, now I have a problem with what looks to to be an altenator. The amp meter is jumping around between 11v to 15v. I put a meter on the chassic battery when it is running and there is only 12v, but if I look at the fuse box under the dash there is 14.20v to 14.40v.
Is there a fuse thats is between the altenator and the battery? Or could it be a bad altenator?
Locate and test your battery isolator.
Where is the master cylinder located at and how can you bleed air out of the lines, and where is the booster located?
The master cylinder is in the left front wheel well along with the hydraulic booster.
You bleed the brakes at the wheels, like any other vehicle.
What carburetor does it take and the number. I'm having trouble getting that information.
First, are you talking about a small block GM 400 or a big block Chrysler 400?
GM used the Rochester Quadrajet and Chrysler used a Carter carburetor.
Sorry, I have no numbers for you. You should be able to find similar carbs from Edelbrock.
The dash air condition needs a new compressor. Is it complicated to convert to R-34? Is there an easier or less expensive way to get the AC running? The compressor freezes up when the clutch is engaged.
Sounds like you need a new AC guy.
The expansion valve causes the freeze up. It's not a big deal to convert to 134. And these days, you can find R-12 substitutes for reasonable prices.
I need to replace the brake fluid cover (the one BEHIND the bleeping drivers side tire).
The rubber rotted and I can't get a proper seal. So I have no brakes!
Where can I find a brake fluid cover?
If you can't find a good truck parts store in your area call Freightliner parts (have your VIN), or contact some on-line RV salvage yards.
Everything on the speedometer cluster works except it dosen't show miles. The space has only "--------" dashes like this.
I looked at the two plugs on the back and connections look good!
Clusters are expensive and I don't want to buy unless I must!
You will probably have to contact Fleetwood's customer service for help. They used a micro chip for the odometer that gave a lot of trouble. You will probably have to get the chip through Fleetwood and you may need a notarized affidavit to verify mileage.
We parked the RV for the winter and when we went to drive it this Spring, the transmission won't shift to overdrive. I was wondering what would cause the transmission not to shift after sitting or if a wire could have been knocked loose or possibly a fuse blown.
It could be a shift solenoid stuck. The transmission may need to be serviced. The contaminates could cause a problem with the solenoids. A transmission shop should be able to hook up a scanner and see what's happening.
I am having problems with the batteries, both engine and house, keeping charged. How do I diagnose the problem?
The engine battery keeps discharging, and even the steps will tax the house batteries with the shore line plugged in! I am at a loss, any advice would be welcome.
You should have your engine battery disconnect switch turned off while sitting and plugged into shore power.
If your house batteries are being drained while plugged into shore power, then you need to test the power converter battery charge circuit.
Winnebago sometimes uses an electrical box up front with the disconnect switch and battery boost solenoid that had a couple of thermo breakers in there. Check around the edge of the breaker for a very, very small reset button.
I need to find out what caliper I need for my 1991 Fleetwood Southwind on P-30 Chevrolet chassis. It would be nice to know the size and part number. I have bought three sets from NAPA and I believe they are selling me the wrong ones because every 400 miles I'm going through them and pads. I have a new master cylinder.
They are probably selling you the right pads and calipers.
Have you replaced the rubber hoses going to the calipers?
And check to make sure the linkage is moving freely, and make sure the adjustment on the pin activating the master cylinder has some free play and not allowing the master cylinder to fully release.
Where is the fuel pump relay located? I have looked everywhere.
On the 1990 chassis it may have went to a fuse to replace the relay. If you have a fuel pump fuse in the chassis fuse panel, you probably don't have a relay.
On the earlier John Deere chassis with the relay, the relay was usually under the dash bundled up in the wiring harness.
Where is the fuel pump located?
You should have a mechanical pump on the engine and an electric delivery pump in the rear near the fuel tank or in the fuel tank. Fleetwood was pretty good about using an external pump so it wasn't necessary to drop the tank if you had an issue with the fuel pump.
When the cruise control is on it is good for awhile then you start to lose speed, then if you just touch the throttle pedal, it will come back up for a bit then it happens again.
Can you tell me what is happening and what to do to fix this problem?
I don't know if your unit is a vacuum operated servo or all electric. Some of the vacuum operated units had a vacuum accumulator ball that would occasionally go bad and start leaking around the seam.
Where do I add brake fluid?
Left front wheel well. There is a hole in panel at top of master cylinder.
Can I replace only the electric heater element of the choke pull off on a Rochester carb? If so, where can I get one? There are numbers on the element but can't find any on the carburetor.
Try your local NAPA dealer. The electric element was a separate part.
I have an engine temperature gauge out, it is in a cluster type setting in the dash. I removed the gauge, but can't seem to find another one for replacement. The gauge is a "AC 3720". it was actually made in the USA, believe it or not.
I really don't know where you could find one, unless you could get lucky and get a Chevrolet parts guy to do some searching through GM parts for one.
You might also try to contact some of the on-line RV salvage yards. Just use a search engine for "RV salvage" and you might get lucky and find one in your area.
When cruising the auxiliary battery will not charge nor will it charge when plugged into outside power.
We have checked all breakers and fuses and all wires and everything seems to be ok.
We are in a band always on the road so it is difficult to take it to have it looked at, so I do a lot of maintenance myself.
If you could help we would greatly appreciate it.
Find the battery isolator and test it.
Also, look for a battery disconnect solenoid and test it.
You might also want to check the power converter to see if the battery charge circuit is working. Look for any pole type breaker between the battery and the disconnect switch.
This unit has a starting problem which seems to be fuel related. I can crank on it until the battery runs down and it will not start until I give it some carb cleaner or starting fluid. After it fires and I can keep it running, it runs fine.The engine has a fuel pump which I replaced and a midship pump on the frame which the previous owner replaced.
Does this year of vehicle have a in tank pump as well? I looked under there where the tank is located and there seems to be a metal cover hiding the tank from view. So I can't see if any wires are running to the tank.
If so, could this be the problem such as not getting the fuel to the midship pump at a reasonable pressure to start?
I don't fancy having to take the tank down. It looks like a job to me.
Usually when it has a pump along the frame rail, it doesn't have one in the tank. However, I can't see it to know if the pump along the rail was added to try and repair a failed one in the tank.
I have seen the ignition module on those old class C's with the Ford 460 do the same thing and make you think it's a fuel problem instead of an ignition problem.
Purchased 2004, ran great for 6,000 mile trip.
Developed symptoms like vapor lock when going uphill from main (rear), fuel tank. Stop, let cool 10 min, OK until next hill.
Then started on flat, then started same operating from auxiliary tank (front, near engine).
Spent $2K checking fuel pumps, changing filters. One shop said needed cooler air, changed to twin snorkel air filter with dryer vent hose to intake forward of engine. Worked better for a while.
Engine seems hot.
You can try some octane boost for a little help, but I bet the problem is with the delivery fuel pump.
I bet the fuel pump relay is not sending power to the pump under load.
I replace the front shocks and the air bags and I am still getting a clunking sound hitting the floor about a foot from the bright headlight foot switch. Feels like it is going to come right through the floor.
Underneath it has a cover and I am nout sure what is under it. Any ideas?
The cover shields the steering column, brake master cylinder, etc., from the wheel well. Look at the body supports or floor joist for a broken weld.
Also, look a jounce bumper to make sure it's not sagging and bottoming out on the jounce bumper.
If it's the power steering belt with the pump mounted low on the driver's side of the engine, you can access it from the bottom and the adjustment bolt is behind the pully. You'll have just enough room to loosen it and slide the pump to remove and tighten the belts.
I need an inline fuel vent valve, is there any out there or what else can I use?
If you can't find one through GM parts stores, you can use an in-line fuel filter as a last resource.
Have a full charge on aux. battery, nothing works inside the motorhome. When I start motorhome running off main battery everything works fine, checked fuses.
Is there a solenoid or something else I am missing?
Yes, you are missing a solenoid or auxiliary battery cut off switch. Possibly the battery isolator solenoid on this older Winnebago unit.
I have a 1988 Georgie Boy Cruiser, with an E-brake problem. The brake seems to be stuck on. It was parked and now it won't move. How do I free the E-brake?
Can I disconnect it in order to move it to a garage? How?
First, I would need to know for sure what chassis you have, and then I would need to verify if it is the emergency brake hung up, or if it was a wheel brake froze up.
A lot of those coaches used the John Deere chassis and had a hydraulic activated E brake on the rear of the transmission.
You can pull the pin and disconnect the cable pulling the brake, but be very careful, because there is no "park" in the transmission.
We were given a twenty year old pop up trailer that had been sitting for ten years. When I poured water down the sink, it leaked at what appears to be a gasket. When I touched the leak, the drain piece, the gasket and the rubber washer all came off with ease. Looking at it, I don't see how it was attatched in the first place, there is no screw on to the sink. Is is glued, and if so, what type of glue do I use?
Usually the rubber seal has a groove around the perimeter of the seal, and has to be pushed through the opening and seals top and bottom of the sink or tank.
When I plug into my truck I have only have front clearance lights, but are dim. Cleaned up the ground on the front of the camper, still did not help. Losing my mind.
I would go to the back of the pigtail and start from there. Clean up the ground and start tracing the wire to the rear of the trailer.
If you're lucky the manufacturer didn't run the wire up through the front and then back through the roof. If they did, it might be easiest to run new wires along the frame to the rear.
I have a leaking water tank and need to order a new one to replace it but I want to know capacity and dimensions so the new one will fit. I am not home to tear it out.
Also, how would I go about removing said tank?
I don't know that anyone would know the size and shape of your tank. I would suggest getting home and look at the unit and do what is necessary to remove the tank and then order one taht will fit. It might not be an exact tank.
The water does not come out of the kitchen sink but works fine in the bathroom area.
Clean the aerator. If you still don't get water, crack a line loose at the faucet to see if there is water there before replacing the faucet.
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