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This page updated March 16, 2013 containing letters emailed to Pete from January 2, 2012 - November 25, 2012.
When I start my motor home I cannot get it out of park. It will also blow the brake light fuse (15A). If I turn the key one notch clock wise to neutral and start it I can then put it in drive but if I put it in park I have to start it in park in order to move to drive. It also keeps blowing the brake light fuse. They have told me it is the brake on/off switch or the neutral safety switch. Can you help me with the part that need to be replaced and the location? A part number and picture would be nice too.
I can't help with a picture and part numbers; but before you start changing parts, check out the wiring in the rear of the coach from the tail lights to the tow vehicle light receptacle to make sure it's not just shorted wiring causing the fuse to blow.
My speedometer stop working in my motor home. I replaced the speed sensor, checked all the fuses and the code I get on the scanner is, " signal voltage is too low". This makes my RV skip and foul out plugs and smoke badly.
How can I get this to work? It just stopped all the sudden and I've tried every thing. I tested the wires and it is getting no power. I removed the instrument panel and no power there either.
Sounds like ECM failure. Check all the main ground connections for the wiring harness first.
Can I use a 50/30/15 series of adapters to run refrigerator or lights when parked for loading at home?
Yes, but be aware of the length and size of extension cord and limit the load you put on it.
Most people forget to consider the load from the battery charge circuit or having the electric water heater on.
Put new fuel pump in tank. Not getting power to fuel pump. New batteries, starter etc.
Check your fuel pump relay, usually found out next to the batteries or on the radiator support by the horns, there will be two relays together.
How high should the wheel well sit above the tires?
This is a good question. In over fifteen years and over 100,000 emails sent to me, I've never had this question asked before.
I guess my answer would be to look at your jounce bumpers where the frame bottoms out on the stops, measure the distance between the jounce bumper and frame rail and then add a couple of inches for your minimum distance.
ABS light came on and lost brake pedal pressure when parking the unit. Appears to have lost some type of fluid under the unit. But drove home with no problem and light is still on.
We just bought the unit on Friday. Any suggestions?
First, find out and repair the fluid leak. Then check the ABS, if the light is still illuminated after repairing the leak.
We just went on a trip and as we were going up a mountain pass the engine started to surge. By the time we made the summit we were down to about 20 MPH. Small hills are ok and flat ground is ok. Just seems to be long hills or mountain passes.
First, you need to determine if you're having a fuel problem or a secondary ignition problem.
Is it a bog down like no fuel, or a backfire and miss like ignition?
On my last outing the check engine light came on and stayed on. I have been looking for the DLC for scanner but can not locate it.
Is it the standard 16 pin terminal? Where is the terminal located and how else could I erase the code?
It could have a couple of connectors; the 16 pin you're aware of, and also a round nine pin connector.
You could try disconnecting the battery or cycling the switch several times to clear the code; but you want to scan it first to see what "set" the code and fix it.
Cannot find the AC low pressure switch. Regular AC mechanic and I have searched and cannot find it. Any ideas where it might be located?
Look between the dryer and evaporator or at the rear of the compressor.
Was wondering where the fuel pump is located and where the fuel pump relay is located. Will not run, but will start and run a while if you pour gas down the throttle body.
The fuel pump is in the tank. The relay is usually on a separate panel under the driver's side dash, near the chassis fuse panel.
I recently was driving home and my auto park light came on, when I would stop at the stop light, with it in drive, you could hear something pumping in the engine compartment. It never locked up or was applying any emergency brake. After I got home I tried to move the RV but when I put it in drive the auto park will not release. Not sure where to start since I cannot move it?
Do you have any suggestions for me on what to look at and how to fix?
Find the pump and reservoir for the auto park under the coach. There are two pressure switches on the pump assembly; one is for the light, the other controls the lock up.
You can go on line to Work Horse parts for the switches.
Our slide out will not come in and we have no power to the switch. We purchased a new switch from Tiffen and they had changed the old one to the one they use now.
We can't figure out how to get it wired in. Have you replaced one of these in an Allegro Bay diesel pusher?
Call Tiffen's customer service and they will tell you how the switch is supposed to be wired. Their tech line is very helpful.
I had no power inside. replaced transfer switch. got all power but rear air conditioner. Replaced energy management unit and got rear air conditioner on shore power only; no power on generator for rear air conditioner. What should I check?
I would start with checking the breakers on the gen set and then the wiring to the transfer switch.
I recently purchased this used RV and can not get the dash lights to work. The radio is missing, not sure if that has anything to do with the problem or not. Check all the fuses in the box under the hood, they all are good. Any suggestions?
Check the head light switch.
How to replace the gas line going from the tank to the genset.
Drop the fuel tank for access.
Just bought this great 14 year old 1998 Fleetwood Southwind; traveled Illinois to Wyoming with no issues, coming back, packing three of seven grand kids. Used out and back a cigarette plug in with three additional plugs. Day three almost in Illinois, the in dash lighter plug stopped working, so did the triple plug-in.
I have pulled all known fuses, three fuse box locations-two under the hood and one by the breaker box near refrigerator, nothing labeled for lighter. I raised the dash and could not see an in line fuses. Question: Where do I look next?
There should be one under the dash, but did you check to see if the socket went bad?
Overloading the circuit with triple plugs usually melts the contact in the rear of the socket.
My auto brake light won't go off on the dash. The fluid is fine and I've moved it back and forth in the driveway the brakes seem to be fine. Can I drive it like this? Will be unsafe to drive?
I don't like to tell you to drive with the light on, unless you're heading to have it repaired.
It might just be the pressure switch for the light, but you need to be sure. There is too much of a safety issue to ignore.
The battery has been drained when we park at home and hook up to electricity. We have replaced the battery and it didn't help. We recently noticed a clicking coming from the step like it is trying to retract and think that this might be causing the battery to drain. What do you think?
First, do you have your battery disconnect switch turned off while plugged in?
I would check the charge rate from the power converter. The step could cause a drain on the battery (possibly a bad door switch for the step).
But the power converter should keep a charge in the battery while plugged in, even with the step draw.
My 110 plugs for the TV at CD players do not work. They used to not work only when engine ignition was on. Now it always dead.
Is there some sort of relay to check, and if so ,where is it located?
All other 110 plugs work.
You might have to pull the front TV and see if you can find the TV lock out relay. It should kill the plug when the key is on.
Had wiring checked on steps, relay was replaced. Motor checked. It will work a while then stop. Will not come out. What else could be the problem?
Door switch or control module. Sometimes the motor and gears get worn enough to where the step will travel far enough that it jams when it goes all the way in; and if you remove the motor and free it up, it will work again until it jams up again.
Either replace the motor and gear box or get good at taking the motor off and putting it back on.
Do you know where one could purchase a throttle cable for my motor home?
You will need your VIN and contact Freightliner parts. Some of the larger truck parts stores can make up cables.
What makes the ECM fuse keep blowing when you turn key on?
Also, I have replaced a lot of electric parts and on the bottom of the steering column is a black round thing that when you turn key on and the small rod/cable goes up and down gets hot and not sure what that is. I just got it and I haven't had much time to know it and the guy that I got it from won't answer his phone.
Sounds like you're describing the ignition switch on the steering column. That could be the source of your problem or you could have some ignition wiring shorted. Look at the wiring going to the starter, and look at that ignition switch.
Where is the orifice tube or expansion valve located in the AC system for the cab?
There is no orifice tube. You can look at the AC box on the firewall. The expansion valve is between the evaporator and the low and high side hose connected to the evaporator and the hoses screw into the expansion valve housing.
How do I replace the latch on my compartment door?
All doors are different. Once the door is open, if you don't have access to the handle, you might have to remove the inside panel from the door.
Unable to get 4-way hazard/flashers working. Flasher unit ok, is there an in-line fuse or relay that I should check out? I don't have a schematic available.
If you have the Workhorse owner's manual it should list the relays and what they are for. If not, you can call Workhorse's customer service; they are pretty good with technical service. Have your VIN when you call them.
I need to know where the auxiliary battery relay is located on this motor home. This relay will not allow the coach to have 12v power. It used to work sometimes and now it does not work at all. If I plug into 110v outlet everything is OK.
Winnebago usually mounts the solenoid on the driver's side outside fire wall, occasionally it will be in the battery compartment.
Lights inside vehicle only work when generator is on and used to work off of battery system. Replaced batteries with new ones, and checked all fuses and found all were still in working condition.
Look for a battery disconnect solenoid or an in-line thermo breaker between the battery and the power converter or fuse panel.
Just drove the RV 7,000 miles in three weeks to attend our daughter's college graduation in Virginia. On the way home started loosing water/coolant from motor's cooling system, gradually more each day. Got home and inspected source of leak as relief hole on the water pump.
Do I need to remove the transmission cooler and radiator assembly to replace the water pump, or can I just remove the fan housing and fan to get to the water pump and replace?
You should be able to just remove the fan. Some of the radiator fan shrouds are bolted together in the center so you can remove half of the shroud for access.
Hydraulic jacks on 2004 Damon Intruder don't retract completely.
Rear jacks, what is the best lubricant for them?
First, what brand name are the jacks?
You shouldn't have to lubricate them in most situations.
Some of the Power Gear jacks have a grease cert on the bottom of the cylinder. A couple of shots of grease acts as a wiper when the jacks are retracted.
If you are leaving the coach sit for extended periods of time with the rams exposed to the weather you can spray them with a silicone lubricant to prevent rusting.
Sometimes with HWH jacks, the springs are extremely rusted and WD-40 will free up the spring.
How do I replace the bushings on the rear sway bar? They are completely gone. Will that stop the tendency for the coach to lean when going around the corners?
I would suggest buying a bushing kit from Suspension Solutions. It won't stop all of the leaning, but it will be an improvement. The cost will be close to the OEM parts to repair it and comes with good instructions.
We (RV Chassis Master, Inc.), can help you with ordering parts if needed.
There are several after market components to improve on the leaning condition, but you do want to repair failed parts first.
Our coach has sat in a storage building for about five months now. It starts up just fine and builds air just fine but when I put it in drive or reverse it won't move. It acts like it wants to but for some reason the brakes seem locked up.
I did notice that the entry steps do not retract all the way under the coach. They go in and out but not all the way in. Could this have a bearing on the coach not moving?
I don't believe the step is related except in the fact that it needs the same thing as the brakes (lubrication).
Someone is going to have to get under it and lubricate and free up the rear brakes.
Speedometer not working.
That's a little bit of trouble in diagnosing. Pull the speed-o head out and send it out to be tested, repaired or replaced.
Allegro of Freightliner's customer service can help with the information you need.
If it's not in the speed-o, then it's in the wiring or the computer (ECM).
Is their a limit switch located on the slide outs?
I get a continuous alarm sound with the slides all the way in the travel position. It is a different alarm from the low air and air brake alarm.
When the key is in normal position, engine running or not, running and driving it will not go off.
It started when I would make a turn, now it is continuous.
If there is a switch, where is it located and how do I get to it to adjust?
Are you sure you're not dealing with a jack down alarm or a park brake alarm?
Sometimes the sensor at the park brake valve will go bad and continuously sound off when you release the park brake.
Some of our dash toggle switches don't work? Can you help?
I think it may be a relay or fuse that I can't find.
Look in the rear of your forward storage compartments for access to the fuse panel. Some of the National units had the fuse panel under the sidewall cover next to the driver's left arm.
Our odometer is speeding like crazy. We drove 10 miles and it says we went 510 miles! Do you have any suggestions?
Call Freightliner's customer service. The odometer is federally controlled and you must work through Freightliner to correct it.
Need to add a brake controller for trailer brakes. It does have a plug in back for trailer light hook up.
Will I find wires under the dash to hook the brake controller to that run to the back or will I have to run a harness?
I'm picking up next week and trying to get some things figured out.
More than likely you will need to run your own harness; but it won't hurt to look under the rear of the coach and see if there is a loose harness hanging there for the trailer plug.
Our motor home needs a new alternator and it seems hard to access. Any helpful hints?
Usually removing the right front wheel will give you enough access to take the pain out of the job.
Fuse or circuit beaker location for basement lights
Usually it's located behind the grill out front in a fuse panel mounted on the fire wall, driver's side.
What would cause the battery cutoff (disconnect), switches to work and then not work? When they don't work, nothing on the coach works except for the engine - it will start and run. (Separate battery and disconnect switch - I understand). When not working they will not click when pressed on or off.
Sounds like bad batteries on the coach side, or a loose wire between the disconnect switch and the solenoid.
My 2000 Bounder will not start sometimes. It doesn't even turn over. The brake assist is activated, the dash indicators light up. New starter, battery. After turning the key off and on a couple of times it will eventually start. Any ideas?
So what are the symptoms when you turn the key? Is it clicking, or doing nothing?
If it just clicks one time, it could be the starter solenoid.
If it's doing "nothing", I would check all grounds and look at the bulk head connector going through the fire wall and ignition switch for over heated wires.
We own a 1994 Winnebago Vectra. Recently the ceiling fabric has fallen down and we don't know how to fix it. Is there a special glue or should we us some type of screws?
You might have to replace the panels. Winnebago used a vinyl material with foam on the back in a lot of their units.
When it comes apart, there is no gluing it back.
I have noticed that when the coach is sitting the driver's side is about a 1/2 inch lower than the passenger, and that when turning to the right around a corner the coach doesn't want to come back level, it stays about 3 to 4 degrees high on the passenger side, but if I crank the wheel to get it to jerk right it seems to level out.
Any thoughts on where I should start to look for a fix?
I would start by measuring the ride height and see what shape your springs are in. Being a 1999 model, does it have a straight front axle or A frames?
Roadmaster Chassis: The air gauge swings between 4 - 20 psi while running down the road. It will sometimes remain at 4 psi for awhile before climbing back up. It never stays at max pressure but starts dropping right away.
Where is the pressure regulator at and is this the problem? What pressure is considered desirable?
Your Monaco Knight should have hydraulic brakes on it. I am not sure what they are using the air supply for; and I can't think of any OEM air gauge or equipment that operates at less than 20 p.s.i.
Are you sure it's not an after market type air pressure gauge for horns or add on air bags?
How do I get to the master cylinder to check the fluid?
If you have leveling jacks and blocks you can raise it up so you can reach in over the left front wheel and reach through the hole in the front of the engine shield and remove the master cylinder cap.
My CO2 detector is beeping while I am plugged in to 50amp. I have been trying to locate the fuse and just disconnect it. I have looked for the fuse under the bed, front panel, fuse box where batteries are located. I do not find anything marked CO2.
Where would the fuse be located? What is causing it to beep? I had my coach in the shop at MH Specialist for 14 weeks to get battery issues fixed. They claim they had everything fixed as far as the voltage problems. What do I do now?
You might pull the CO detector from the wall and see if the fuse is behind it. That's a common practice. You might find two hot wires.
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