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Below are questions and answers to RV Advice that are related to service
on motorhomes.
You can send your question(s) using the form at the bottom of any of our Q&A pages. We answer ALL email that comes in to us even what other RV web sites forward to us.
This page last updated May 5, 2008 containing letters emailed to Pete from December 19th, 2007 - April 12th, 2008.
Newmar Kountry Star
My air horn does not work, I cannot find the valve/pump to supply the air to it.
The switch works fine, but no air horn.
Where the heck is the pump?
Dear Gary,
Gas or diesel coach?
The gas coach had the pump under the dash on the passenger side.
The diesel uses the air supply and an electric-over-air solenoid.
I own a 1996 37' Winnebago on a F-53 frame. It tends to lean to the left (only on the front). I know there is a lot of weight on that side due to the super slide.
Is it the leaf spring or the shock?
Dear Joe,
It would be in the leaf spring, measure and make sure if the trouble is in the front or the rear.
Whenever I took delivery of my '96 Damon Ultrasport Class C, the 12v coach battery was dead. The battery looks to be almost new. There was no current flowing (to it), when the engine was running. (It is a 460 Ford EFI). The solenoid appeared to be not pulling in at all. I replaced it with a heavy-duty one, which is supposedly expressly designed for a motor home.
The new solenoid energizes and does couple the auxiliary battery to the engine battery, but it very quickly gets extremely hot!
Is that normal given the relatively high current flow-rate?
Also, where should I look for the battery isolator, or is that what I just replaced?
Dear Tom,
The relay should not get hot. That's usually a ground problem.
I would have to look myself to know what Damon was using for a battery isolator.
My 1989 Fleetwood Flair, 460 Ford engine would cut out and in when hitting a bump, then finally died. I traced the problem to the fuel pumps, the one up front has no power.
Do you know where the fuel pump relay is and the inertia switch? I am not sure about the switch or its purpose.
Dear Jamie,
I have to question it it's on the one ton Ford chassis or a John Deere chassis.
Both should be under the dash but the Ford used Motorcraft relays and John Deere used a Bosch relay.
I have a 1995 Fleetwood Tioga on a Ford E350.
My question is, where on earth do I refill or change the hydraulic fluid for the leveling jacks? They're HWH 9000 pound jacks with a 210 control panel.
I inherited this coach from my Dad who let it sit for 4 years (with limited use in the last 10 years). I know the fluid must be changed every two years, but the manuals provided when my parents bought the unit, and the new information provided by HWH, tells me nothing as to the reservoir location.
Dear Miss Pedraza,
Look underneath along the frame rail.
I have 1998 Newmar Dutch Star and every year after storage my air system doesn't want to build pressure. Then after three or four of starting and stopping it takes off. I'm always afraid its not going to take off.
Dear Rick,
First, I would service the air dryer. Then I would check the rear ride height and air dump valves.
I have a 2002 Dutchstar 40' on a Spartan chassis, Cummins 350, side radiator, would like to know how to remove radiator.
Dear Thomas,
Remove the panel in front of the radiator and dig in one component at a time.
The more you remove the more visible the procedure will be.
I have a 1988 Pinnacle by Establishment with a gas 454 engine. It has 31,000 miles on it. I was on a small trip recently and while going up a 6% grade, it started spitting and sputtering. We made it up okay and then it cleared up and ran like a champ. Another smaller grade and the same thing. I'm thinking fuel filter? Don't know where its located and how big a job or if its something else. The engine compart is located inside the cab.
Dear Dave,
You should have an in-line fuel filter along the frame rail in the gas line and one in the carburetor where the fuel line connects.
I would also check the fuel pump relay on the side of the engine compartment in front and to the left of the A/C compressor.
I have a 1992 E350 Minnie Winnie. It was running fine but all of a sudden, it was like I was running on empty and had no pick up power. I thought that maybe it was my Catalytic converter; but after paying almost $600.00, that wasn't the problem.
I have a 351 Windsor and am at wit's end.
Any suggestions?
I wanna go camping!
I have checked the fuel pump, filters, wires and plugs.
Would a bad distributor give me this problem or the internals of the distributor?
Dear Robert,
The ignition module could cause the problem. Get someone to scan the computer for trouble codes.
I have a 2003 32 Southwind and need to do a tire change, 18.5, would like to know what is the best overall tire to go to. One, two and three choices.
Dear Larry,
I don't have a preference on tires.
Goodyear and Michelin are always good choices.
I recommend finding a reputable tire shop experienced with RVs and let them direct you.
I have just replaced the in-tank fuel pump on my 1989 Southwind (Chevy P30), and have no power to that pump and am trying to locate the fuel pump relay. I checked the pump and plug (using a jump wire), at the rear before re-mounting the tank and everything checked out and ran fine but am getting nothing when I turn on the ignition.
Dear Alan,
The fuel pump relay is mounted on the side of the engine compartment in front and to the left of the AC compressor.
We have a Winnebago Itasca Passage, 1994, 7.4l Chevy. We have had it 6 months and think that the overdrive isn't working properly. We have had it to a transmission place who says that the gear box is working properly and that there is probably an electrical fault somewhere and may need an auto electrician.
Do you know of any traditional or hereditary problems that may be easier to find that may help us?
Dear Helen,
They had some problems with the internal wiring harness but you need a good transmission shop or electrical person to trouble shoot it and correct it.
The shop I work in has a national account. The trucks include Chevy P30 and Ford trucks that are similar.
Right now I am working on a 1995 Chevy P30 that the right front wheel is locking up. We replaced the caliper and brake line, and bled the entire system. Then we replaced the master cylinder, cleaned the proportioning valve, and bled the system again.
The right front tire is still locking up. The only thing is when driven, the vehicle does not pull to the locking side, only when the front wheels are off the ground to compare the two fronts and how they free spin. The truck has a Hydroboost system, and we can not figure out how to get the wheel to spin freely.
Dear George,
You might first take it for a drive and shoot the rotors with a temperature gauge to see if you really have a problem; then inspect the area of the caliper slide rails to see if the caliper can move freely.
I have a 1994 Pace Arrow that I just purchased. Drove it from San Antonio Texas back to Indiana 21 Hours. We have made several trips and just yesterday I hit a bad spot in the road and the vehicle started to shimmy and shake so bad that I thought the front end was going to jump out of it, slowed the vehicle down to a stop checked the front end and took off again and drove out fine.
Checked over when I got to work and noticed the sway bar bushings were bad. Could this cause this?
The vehicle is already equipped with a Steer Safe, Bilstein shocks and the front end appears to be all right.
Tested with crow bar and checked all bolts are tight. After replacing the bushings is there anything else I need to check?
Will the sway bar cause this? The vehicle rides out fine but just worried to go on a long trip, even though the vehicle has only 57,175 miles on it.
Dear Greg,
I don't think the sway bar bushing was the cause but they still need to be replaced.
I would install the Davis Tru Trac Bar to keep the axle in place. And, if those Bilstein shocks have been on there for a few years I would go ahead and switch them out with the Koni shocks.
I am assuming with your complaint it is the Ford chassis.
I have a 2001 Newmar Dutch Star with a 2000 F53 V10 Ford chassis. The speedometer will not read above 38 mph. I have installed a new pickup module on the differential and still get the same results.
The speedometer has analog dials with what appears to be a electro- magnetic input from the pickup module.
What options do I have in replacing or getting the old instrument cluster repaired?
I know that there is the issue of retaining the proper mileage on the speedometer.
Dear Jerry,
You will probably have to go through Ford parts to get the instrument cluster sent off for repair.
I have a 1995 Fleetwood Bounder on a Ford chassis. The shifter will not go into gear with the engine running. With the key off the shifter will go into reverse, than when I click the key further the shifter drops a little and I can shift into neutral and start the motor. If I shift back into park the shifter will not move with the engine running.
Dear Ken,
Check your brake lights. The shifter will not move with the engine running if it doesn't see a brake light signal.
I can't find the day time running light module socket on my 1996 Rexhall Vision which is built on a Ford F53 chassis. I have a manual but its more for the Ford super duty chassis and Ford even emailed some info but I still can't find it.
I have the part so I just need to know where it goes. The manual I have says it's on the radiator support while other information points toward the dash area near the steering column.
By the way DRL's are required by law in Canada and Ford simply put a resistor plug in the module socket on vehicles sold in the USA.
Dear Tony,
I would be more inclined to look at the wiring harness near the steering column next to the computer.
I recently purchased a 1995 Gulf Stream Conquest 23 ft Class C motor home. We noticed that the sleeping area over the cab is sagging.
Is there a kit or plans for fabricating braces that would extend from the front bumper/frame to the under side of the front of the sleeping area?
We also noticed that the roof leaks where the sleeping area attaches to the main structure. I am hoping that by bracing the cab over area the leaks could be permanently stopped.
Dear Gary,
You need to rebuild the cab over and repair the roof. Bracing it will not stop further rot that is already in progress.
I have a 1999 Georgetown 36' motor home with V-10 Triton motor. I experience electrical problems at times. Sometimes when dry camping, my 12 volt system goes dead overnight, but after I start my coach motor, you hear a beep and everything comes back on and you can turn off the coach motor and use the 12 volt system.
It has been doing this more frequently and I am not sure what it is. The batteries all go dead and I cannot start the generator, and barely able to start the coach motor.
Dear Frank,
Sounds like you're having a problem with the charge circuit on your power converter or your battery disconnect isolator solenoid.
I am not sure exactly what Forest River's is using for a load management system.
My fuel tank on my 1995 E350 Ford RV fills extremely slow. Yesterday, while returning from Pennsylvania it took me 45 minutes to get 20 gallons of fuel. The vent lines are okay. This has happened before and someone said it was a flap valve in the RV. Help!
Dear Tom,
You could be having a problem with the roll over valve in the fuel filler spout. You will need to replace the fuel filler tube to repair it.
I have a 1998 35' Georgie Boy Cruise Master on a Ford chassis with the 460 engine. I have no power to the engine, dash or lights after replacing the engine battery.
I am also uncertain of the negative and positive cables since they are all red. I can hear a click when I use the emergency start button but still no power to the engine.
Where did I go wrong here? The deep cycles work all the coach lights and the generator turns over. The manual that I have doesn't help much with schematics so I'm really stuck.
Dear Dennis,
Follow the cables and make sure you have the battery hooked up right first.
Make sure your battery disconnect switch is turned on.
Then check your maxi fuses in the fuse panel up front.
What is a good starting adjustment setting for the Koni shocks on a 2007 E450 30ft double slide class C?
Dear Garry,
Koni recommends installing the shocks as pre-set by the factory so you can tighten them up later as they wear.
My 2004 Fleetwood Pace Arrow has a Chevy 8.1 Vortec engine that runs good except when I encounter an upgrade or hill while in overdrive. When the engine begins to work because of the hill, it misses and shakes noticeable. It then downshifts to maintain speed, but the miss is still noticeable. Once the hill is topped it shifts back to overdrive and the engine runs smoothly.
Average mileage on the highway is 7 mpg. Engine gages indicate that everything is normal. The spark plugs and wires were replaced about 18 months ago (3000 miles since replacement). Total mileage is 21,500. It seems to be OK in city driving when overdrive is not used.
Dear Leo,
Sounds like an ignition problem, a spark plug or wire breaking down. But it could be starving for fuel. What about the fuel filter?
It wouldn't hurt to put in a fuel treatment to make sure it's not water in the fuel.
1995 Damon UltraSport 3470, 460, automatic with Banks power system. While driving, with the transmission warm, second trip of the season, about 30 miles into it, the transmission would not go into OD. I had slowed to tun at an intersection. Engine RPM was about 3500 at 55 MPH. I pulled over, shut the motor off for a few seconds, then started and ran, then discovered the transmission shifted hard, with a lurch, all gears, no OD. I let the MH sit overnight and tried it the next day.
I drove for about 3 miles, no problems, smooth shift, about 2250RPM at 55MPH. I may have hit the OD cut off switch the previous trip. Fluid in transmission is not new but not burnt smell.
Dear Sam,
Sounds like maybe an intermittent trouble code was set. The OD light on the shift lever should have been blinking. The blinking light is to warn you of a problem, let you know the transmission is in a limp mode and will not go into OD and has a hard shift in the limp mode. If it persists you will need to scan the computer for the diagnostics code.
I have seen wires broken internally at the speed sensor plug on the Damon, causing the intermittent problem.
I have a transmission leak on a 1991 Fleetwood Bounder with a P30 Chevy chassis. I have not driven it over three months, during that time I have not seen any leaks. I used the leveling jacks to due some work on it. A week later the leak started, it was coming from the transmission hub/deferential.
My question is does the leveling jacks put pressure on the drive train to cause the leak, or is it because it was setting for a long time? Will it fix itself if I start driving it more often?
Dear Sam,
The problem is from sitting, not the jacks.
Run it a little on the road and see what happens. Don't run the transmission low on fluid. You don't want it to leak and saturate your parking brake shoes.
But sometimes a hard seal will heal itself after getting lubricated.
I have a 1996 Fleetwood Flair on a F53 Ford chassis with a 460 motor. For the last 6 years (every 2 years), I have failed smog.
The dealer somehow gets it passed, but it ends up costing me big bucks. This year I took it to a mechanic and said please help by find the problem.
After hours of work with the combined effort of this mechanic and a smog mechanic, they told me that it looks like the chassis (motor) wiring is really a 1995.
The vin number says it’s production date is Nov. of 1995 and so the dealer says it’s differently a 1996.
How can I tell who is telling me the truth?
Dear Tom,
Both. It's common for a coach builder to use a chassis built from the previous year; but even by Ford's standards a chassis built in November of 1995 would be considered a '96 model. But if the coach production date was November, 1995, the coach could be a '96 model but the chassis could be a 1995 model. (Very common).
By the way, when working on emission problems the first place to start is the VIN to identify what year you're working on.
1998 Damon Intruder-this weekend the over head switch lights wouldn't come on-basement cargo lights wouldn't come on-kept blowing the 15 amp fuse. I was using generator power-replaced 15 amp fuse with 20-everything worked.
I did find out that my RV guy said my batteries had to be put on the charger as they were weak when he changed the generator oil before I left town (the RV had been plugged into garage at all times).
Any ideas what can be causing this? I did notice a basement light fixture has rusted-could this have any effect on the issues I am having?
Dear Shirley,
Yes, the rusted light fixture or any other fixture with moisture in it could cause your problem.
Where is the defroster fan located on a 2003 American Tradition motor home?
Dear Ron,
Usually the passenger side behind the dash.
I have a 1994 Bounder motor home with Chevy 454 on a P30 chassis. I step on the brake and I get a power steering noise (kind of a fluid groan), that is getting worse.
I have lost my brakes two times. Once in the mountains going down hill the pedal went clear to the floor. I had to continue down the mountain in 1st and 2nd gear and let the brakes cool off. Once I made it down everything worked fine.
The time before that I had been parked and when I started the engine and stepped on the brake the pedal went to the floor. The brakes seem to be working fine at this time. Is the power steering fluid pressure noise related to the brake failing? What are my options?
Dear Jim,
Yes, the power steering pump is also supplying the hydraulic boost for the brakes and parking brake. The parking brake may need to be adjusted and the system checked.
I have two questions:
1. How do I remove the air filter housing to inspect/change the filter on my 1997 Rexhall Vision F-53 chassis, Ford 460 engine?
2. Where can I get a chassis and cabin manual for my motor home, preferably used?
Dear Tony.
1. Sometimes it can be a chore but the four bolts on the top corners are for accessing the filter. If the coach manufacturer did not allow room for the cover to be removed you may have to pull the whole assembly.
2. See our FAQs page.
I have a 97 Fleetwood Bounder, we are having trouble getting the propane to flow. We have the manual valve open and can't get flow useless we jump the safety solenoid at the tank with 12v's, then it works fine. What supplies the current to that safety solenoid valve?
Dear Daryn,
It's usually supplied by the LP leak detector. Do a pressure leak test on the system before using it again.
I have 2007 BornFree President with Link Ultraride. The ride height and air pressure has been checked and is within specs. It is equipped with new Bilstein shocks. The problem is with passing semi's that causes it to sway and steer to one side and another. Ultraride has a sway bar option.
Will this help with the problem?
I am also considering a steering stabilizer by Safe-T-Plus. Is there any other advice that may help correct this problem?
Dear Emery,
I have been using the front sway bar by Suspension Solutions. The Safe-T-Plus is always a good option for just what it says, "safety". I haven't noticed a significant improvement in handling from installing the Safe-T-Plus.
I haven't had a chance to see how many of the after market products available for the Kodiac chassis will work with the links suspension. I have been using the Koni shocks for an improved ride, but again, I am not sure if they will work with the links suspension.
If the rear sway bar from Suspension Solutions will adapt with the links suspension it would greatly improve it.
There is a rear trac bar, RollGard and other updates for the rear but I need to get a unit equipped with the link suspension in my shop to see what fits and what it takes to correct it.
I have a 1989 E350 Tioga Class C (7.5 lt) RV. There is like a "coffee can" on the underside of the RV (drivers side). Do you know what this is for?
I am reviewing Chiltons repair manual but I don't see it. I just spent a ton on passing the new "EVAP" smog test, so I am trying to understand a little more about making repairs.
Dear JP,
It should be a vacuum reserve canister for the evaporator and sometimes help control blend doors on the heating and air and vacuum for cruise control.
I still have a new one in stock. That dates me. 
1998 Winnebago Brave, Chevy 454 P-30
The RV slopes a little down towards the front, it has air bags with valves in the coil springs what should the air pressure be?
Dear Rudolf,
Between 20 to 100 PSI; measure the ride height and look at the Super Steer coil spring replacements.
Can you tell me where I can obtain metal/flexible brake pipes for the front and rear axles on my 1992 Coachmen motor home, built on an Oshkosh chassis?
Dear Dave,
Freightliner parts. You will need your VIN.
I just had alternator replace on my 1994 Class A Coachman Santara, Spartan chassis. It worked fine for awhile but now it only shows charging every once and awhile I do not have a wiring diagram.
Where is the voltage regulator located on I have yet to find? It has a Cummins 230 diesel. I have also looked on the Spartan web site with no luck.
Dear Larry,
It's built in the alternator.
I have a 1996 Rexhall Aerbus 33ft. with a F53 Ford chassis (460 engine). I have had a few sputtering, dying issues with it on the way home from my last time trip. Before going out a few weeks ago a went to get propane filled and on the way home it died but started right back up. I thought it might be bad gas from sitting for awhile so I thought no big deal gust needs to be ran and cleaned out but when I went out to start it to warm up before leaving it just cranked over, acting like it wasn't getting fuel.
I have done some research and have heard that these chassis are famous for fuel pumps going out! If you think this is my problem, do you have any suggestions, tips or procedures on how to change on this RV?
Dear Claude,
You have to drop the tank and remove the pump and assembly from the top of the tank.
I have a 1997 Bounder that is 37' with a 460 in it. While driving down the road recently it stopped running. After a tow, I found that one of the maxi fuses was burned up. I pulled the fuse and checked continuity to chassis ground on the secondary side of the fuse block, which was a dead short with 0 ohms of resistance. The manual shows that the circuit is fuel pump relay coil and engine electronics.
The first culprit I want to check is the coil, which I know would show continuity across the coil windings, but should have some resistance. However, I have no idea where it is located on the vehicle. Can you head me in the right direction?
Dear Marvin,
The coil is located on the driver's side rear of the engine.
I would probably check the fuel pump first.
I just purchased a 1997 Allegro Bus with a 7.5l gas motor and E4OD tranny. When I turn on my signals, left always and right sometimes, or use my hazard lights, the tranny shifts out of OD.
Also, when the cruise is on, it will cancel cruise, except for the right blinker. It had a Banks system on it and I unhooked it from the tranny, but it still does it. Unless the Banks module was hooked up wrong, I am puzzled.
Dear Tony,
Check your tail lights and side marker lights.
You're getting feed back through the turn signals and brake lights and canceling the cruise control and unlocking the torque converter.
Look for water or trash built up in the lenses.
I have been living full time in a 1984 Pace Arrow Eleganza 30' (gas 454) now for 7 months. Sometime during one particular storm I lost power and through some evening fiddling around it returned. My entire left side appliances have now been out for a month, as well as my dash which includes my generator. I have tried everything I can think of and am about to call in a pro (which I am not happy with, being a male that enjoys knowing everything, this e-mail is even tough for me).
Any advice on where to look for the problem?
Also, I need to replace the alternator which no one seems to be able to locate the model number. I would also like to replace the voltage regulator while I am at it but can not locate that either. GRRRR.
This is why I loved living in a 5th wheel, but the motor-home appealed to my cheap side. Am I now seeing why I never liked a motor-home in the first place?!
Dear Fred,
I would check the GFCI breaker and the coach battery voltage.
Take the alternator to NAPA or any major automotive parts store and match it up. The voltage regulator is built inside the alternator.
I have an '03 Class A Airstream LandYacht with a Workhorse engine. My brake pedal does not retrack when I depress it. I have to pick it up with my foot or it will stay engaged. There are two relays over the pedal. The master cylinder in filled. Can you tell me what you suspect it is?
Dear Ralph,
I would look for binding linkage at the pivot points. You can try WD40 to loosen it up.
I turned off the master switch in my 2000 Pace Arrow, and now I can't get to return to power. I have three new batteries and I have checked all the fuses I can find. I even purchased a new rocker switch for the main. I can't for the life of me get power to the chassis so I can start the motor home.
Also, I can't start the generator, is this part of the same problem?
Dear Gene,
It's probably one problem. Verify your battery voltage then check the battery disconnect solenoid.
I have a 1990 37' Allegro basement, 24,000 miles, P30 chassis. I think I just blew out the rear end. I came off an exit ramp, and would not go, upon examination found fluid leaking all over the road from the driver side axle. Had it lifted and transported on a flatbed (expensive), and discovered a broken axle.
Any suggestions on repair/rebuilding? Where to go for a used housing? I will do most the work myself I just need suggestions on what to look for.
Dear Chuck,
First, you need to inspect and see what failed: differential, axle bearing, axle, see how much damage was done and go from there.
I have a 1999 Southwind 32v (Ford Triton V-10). I cannot locate the OBD plug anywhere. My check engine light is on and would like to see what code it is but can't find the plug anywhere. HELP!
Dear Eric,
Look for it to be taped up in the wiring harness next to the fuse panel under the hood or even under the steering column next to the computer.
What is proper procedure for towing a diesel pusher motor home? Early 90's Mallard Overland. Drive shaft disconnect or axle shaft removal?
Dear John,
Either will work but you take a chance of loosing the gear oil and possibly damaging the wheel bearings when you pull the axles if you tow very far.
We own a 2002 Winnebago Journey DL36 with a 330Hp Turbo Cummins, 6 speed Allison diesel pusher with 35K and we pull a cargo trailer.
The problem is engine overheating under normal operation up slight grades at highway speeds. The condition was not satisfactorily corrected by a couple of Winnebago service facilities as steam cleaning the radiator, replacing all filters, checking all cooling hoses and water pump flow and pressure all met factory specs.
Is there an after market product which either pushes or pulls cooler outdoor air through the radiator to aid in increasing the heat exchange?
The problem is more pronounced on warmer days than cooler days.
Dear Bruce,
I can't think of an after market cooling system.
I would still question flow inside the radiator but if you know it is correct, then I would question air intake into the engine.
Maybe invest in a pyrometer and see what's going on, if the exhaust temperature is going up the water temperature will increase. You might need to work on getting more air into the engine.
I have a 1996 Pace Arrow Vision, Ford power plant. In the process of changing out the auxiliary battery, the wires got mixed. I requested the schematics from the factory but they were no help.
Four wires, one goes to the front of the unit and connects to the fuse box. The remaining three go to the back of the coach. How can I determine which is the ground and which need to be connected to the positive side?
Dear Jan,
With an ohm meter, do a continuity check to see if the wire is grounded or open.
I have a 1988 Bounder with a Chevy 454 (carberated). Everything works fine until it warms up. After it is warm, it wants to load up and die at idle. There is a vacuum operated idle adjuster on the front left corner of the carb. It is hooked to a electrically operated vacuum switch which seems to be connected to a sensor on the left side of the engine. The idle adjuster works when I apply direct vacuum and bypass the vacuum switch. The vacuum switch operates when I apply 12 volts directly. The adjuster doesn't currently move from its rest position when the engine is either cold or hot.
My questions are:
Is this a hot idle adjuster?
Does the sensor supply a voltage to the switch when warm?
Is the vacuum switch supposed to be grounded?
I can't find this configuration in any manual that I have seen so far.
Dear Loren,
No, it's a vacuum operated pull off that should get vacuum as soon as the engine is started. The choke heater is electric and should get power when the engine is started to slowly open choke plate along with the vacuum pull off valve.
Have been to this site with a question before and got wonderful results, right on!
Now, another problem has arisen. I have a 31' 2002 Coachmen Class C with one slide out. Was camping, slide went out, got ready to leave, slide would not come back in and had to use manual procedure. Checked black box under dinette and it doesn't seem to be getting any power; someone advised checking the "thermal" connections near battery. I know where they are but don't know how to check which one goes to slide out. Hope all this makes sense. Look forward to your reply.
Dear Patty and Al,
I would check fuses in the coach fuse panel and look at safety features like leveling jacks down, ignition key on, etc.
The voltage has to get past the applicable safety features first.
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